Raw Denim Soaking & Desizing Guide: Easy Steps for Beginners

For true denim enthusiasts, raw unwashed denim holds an irreplaceable charm. Before desizing, the fabric stays firm and rigid with distinct texture, retaining the original character of denim and marking the very start of the denim fading journey known as "breaking in". Many newcomers love raw denim at first sight, yet hesitate to start the desizing process for fear of damaging the fabric through improper handling. In fact, desizing raw denim is far less complicated than it seems. With the right methods and careful steps, even first-timers can finish the process smoothly. This will soften the fabric and lay a solid foundation for comfortable wear and natural patina formation later on.

First, let us understand why desizing is necessary. During weaving and garment production, a layer of sizing agent is applied to denim fabric. This coating keeps the cloth stiff and neat, facilitating cutting, sewing and shaping on the production line. It also protects the fabric from abrasion and stains during storage and transportation. However, sizing leaves the material rigid and restrictive to wear. More importantly, it locks the cotton fibers completely, preventing natural fading and the formation of unique wear patterns. Therefore, proper desizing is essential to restore the fabric’s natural feel and enhance wearing experience.

There are two mainstream desizing methods: cold water soaking and lukewarm water soaking, catering to different needs. Both require no specialized tools and can be done easily at home.

If you aim to preserve the original texture of denim and slow down the fading process, especially for heavyweight raw denim or selvedge styles, cold water soaking is the most recommended classic method. Prepare a basin of room-temperature water — do not use icy water. Turn the jeans inside out, fasten all buttons and zippers to prevent scratches on hardware and leather patches during soaking and handling. Fully submerge the garment and ensure every part of the fabric is soaked through.

Do not scrub or rub the jeans while soaking; let the water dissolve the sizing naturally. For standard-weight raw denim, soak for 4 to 8 hours. For heavyweight denim of 14oz and above, extend the time to around 10 hours. There is no need to stir the jeans frequently. When the water turns slightly cloudy and the fabric feels noticeably softer to the touch, the surface sizing has been mostly removed. Take the jeans out and squeeze out excess water gently by pressing. Never wring or twist hard, as rough handling will distort fabric fibers and the original cut, and cause uneven fading.

Choose lukewarm water soaking if you want a quicker result or prefer an extra soft hand feel. Keep the water temperature below 30°C — warm to the touch but not hot. High temperature will damage cotton fibers and lead to premature, uneven discoloration that ruins the appearance of raw denim. Likewise, turn the jeans inside out and soak them for 2 to 4 hours. Warm water dissolves sizing faster, so prolonged soaking is unnecessary. If you wish to remove slight manufacturing odors, add a tiny amount of neutral laundry detergent. Avoid strong alkaline washing powder, bleach or fabric softener, which will harm the fabric and disrupt the natural fading process. Again, remove water by gentle pressing only.

Proper drying is critical to maintain the original silhouette after soaking. Flatten the wet jeans, straighten out creases on the waist, legs and pockets to keep its original shape. Hang it in a well-ventilated shaded area to air dry naturally. Keep it away from direct sunlight, which will cause patchy discoloration and make the fabric brittle over time. Do not use a tumble dryer with high heat, as intense heat will lead to shrinkage and permanent shape distortion.

Once fully air-dried, the desizing process is complete. The stiff sizing layer is gone, leaving the fabric supple yet retaining its inherent structure. You will enjoy unrestricted movement while wearing it, with the classic firm texture of premium denim well preserved — this is the ideal effect of moderate desizing.

Here are key reminders for beginners to avoid common mistakes. First, desizing is not deep washing. Focus only on removing surface sizing; excessive soaking and washing will result in premature heavy fading, defeating the purpose of breaking in raw denim. Second, slight color transfer is normal for newly desized raw denim. Wear and store it separately to avoid staining other garments. Third, no extra washing is needed right after desizing. Simply wear it as usual. Natural creases and friction from daily wear are what create one-of-a-kind patina over time.

The true allure of raw denim lies in its journey alongside the wearer, gradually developing exclusive marks and stories as time goes by. Desizing is merely the first step into the world of raw denim. The procedure is simple and straightforward, so there is no need for undue worry. With patience and correct techniques, you can get started with confidence and begin your unique journey with denim.